| This activity
ended in 1997. For information only.
|
The Golden Gate of Vladimir
Humanitarian Linguistic School #23, Vladimir, Russia
Our town is one of the most ancient towns of Russia (by the way, although
the population of Vladimir is about 400,000, it is called a town,
but, to be frank, there are no different words for large or small towns in
Russian, such as 'city' and 'town' in English). We decided to share the
brightest pearl of our ancient architecture with you. Another reason for
that is the fact the Golden Gate has become an unofficial symbol and a
landmark of Vladimir.
The name of the town was given to it in the 10th century by its founder,
Prince Vladimir Monomakh. 'Vladimir' can be translated as 'possessing
the world'. Nowadays, Vladimir is one of the group of ancient towns in
the east and north-east of Central Russia which have in common their
interesting history, the major role they played in the past (Vladimir used
to be the capital of Russia in the 12-14th centuries), the great number of
architectural monuments which have survived in them. These reasons
combined have made the area popular with tourists from all parts of
Russia and abroad and have given the name of 'the Golden Ring' to
all the towns, including Vladimir.
Imagine that you are a stranger of the medieval times coming to Vladimir
from the west. What would you see? If you come up to the town, you are
sure to reach it through the wild thick woods and the only way is along the
road full of danger and outlaws who want to rob you. You approach
Studenaya Gora (the Frosty Hill, which is called so because it is always
windy and cold on the top of it) and see the shining gate to the town
surrounded by the walls for its defence. You go down the hill and are
surely amazed by the view: the magnificent main defence bastion, being
also a church, a triumphant arch and the main entrance to the town,
welcomes you.
The merchants are ready to give you any kind of tasty things like honey,
vodka, pirogi (pies with meat, blueberries, raisins, eggs and rice, onions,
apples, cabbage in them), kissel (a special starchy jelly Russian drink
based on the boiled fruit and berries), red and black caviar; and sell you
any things you want: furs of different animals for the cold Russian winters,
perfumes and iron and silver beads and ornaments for women, wooden
spoons and plates which are useful in order not to hurt yourself while
eating hot soup (borshch), axes,pots, glass-blown stuff and what not.
By the way, the smell of pies can be still felt in the small bakeries which
are preserved in the main street since the ancient times. The buildings
have changed but the unique and original smell flies over the streets
and makes you taste all those delicacies.
But why are the Golden Gate called so? Let's go back to history and find
out. In ancient Vladimir there were five gates: the Golden, the Silver, the
Copper, the Arininy, the Volga ones. The Golden Gate was erected in
1164 and was originally covered with gilded sheets which were shining
brightly in the sun. The Golden Gate looked like the Gates of
Constantinopol, the capital of ancient Byzantium (now it is Istambul in
Turkey). Our gate is the only one of that time which wasn't completely
destroyed during the centuries, although they were badly injured by
Tatars (the tribe coming from the river Volga banks and originated
from Mongolia) in 1238.
This page, which was connected with the Tatar-Mongol invasions of the
13th century, is the saddest one in the history of the whole Russian nation.
Vladimir was conquered and burnt to ashes by the Tatars several times.
It was the history of raids and fires.
Now the Golden Gate is in the centre of the town. It looks strange and
unusual there. Its outline resembles a pyramid. Its top-most part is a
small dome, shining in the sun, with a gilded Orthodox cross on it. Its
central part is a huge cube with the semi-circular arched gateway cut
through it. Above it there are icons of the Holy Virgin of Vladimir on
the western side and of Jesus Christ on the eastern side. The Golden
Gate is made of white limestone. The height of the arch is 14 metres
and the total height of the building is about 30 metres. Halfway of the
main arch a smaller arched crosspiece was added, into which the
powerful doorfolds were fitted.
It's a pity one can't see them now because they disappeared without a
trace after the Tatars left the town. On the top of the powerful cube there
is a small church and a gallery with four windows on each side around it.
In the 18th century, for the sake of town traffic, the earth fortifications
adjoining the Golden Gate were removed. To save the building from the
destruction, the walls of the Golden Gate are reinforced by four round
towers on both sides of the Gate. The towers have two narrow windows
in their lower part and three fake oval windows in the upper part.
Each tower has a heavy wooden door. Between the towers we may see
the facades of the houses. We predict they were the living quarters but
they are not used any more. On the top of each living quarter there is a
small spire decorated with an eight- pointed star on the ball on the top
of it.
Today the Golden Gate houses a military historical museum and a gallery
of heroes of the Soviet Union and Russia born in Vladimir and the Vladimir
region. The heroes portraits, documents and personal belongings are on
display. To reach the museum, which is at the top of the building, you are,
first of all, to cross the street (because now the Gate seems to stand on a
small island surrounded by the sea of cars and buildings), to open a heavy
wooden door and to go upstairs. There are 65 stairs up all in all there. On
entering the museum you will see a panorama depicting the Tatar
occupation. It is extremely colourful and, surrounded by the sounds of the
battle, the shouts of the occupants and the defenders, the smoke of burnt
dwellings, you'll feel as if you were the one in the very thick of things.
From the museum windows you can see the main street. To the left of the
Gate there is Kozlov val (Goats' Hill). This rampant was built up in 1108.
It was a part of the walls protecting the town.
In winter the youth of Vladimir gathers there and goes tobogganing on
small sledges or on a piece of cardboard. Everyone, young and old, is
enjoying himself, though it may be quite dangerous. In the winter evening
you may see either the ground under the snow or deep snow ruts on the
hill. In summer people come on the top of it to get rid of car exhausts and
to enjoy fresh green grass and a lovely view on the innumerable churches
which can be found in the town centre.
To the right of the Gate you can see the oldest building of the Vladimir
State Pedagogical University. Now the Faculty of Literature and the
Russian Language is situated here. It was erected in the last century.
Near the university there is School #1 (all the schools in the town have
their numbers). It is one of the oldest schools of Vladimir.
Opposite the school there is a wonderful church. Its outlook is very
unusual for our town. It is made of red bricks whereas all others are
made of white limestone or are painted white. In this church there is
now a museum of crystal. Behind the church Vladimir Drama Theatre
is situated. Its front wall is decorated with wooden figures of
skomorokhi (folklore singers of ancient Russia). They are dancing
their merry dances and making tricks.
There are some good and funny superstitions connected with the
Golden Gate in our town. If the car with a newly wed couple drives
around the Gate three times (all other cars stop usually, let it go and
signal to it) or a fiancee carries a bride through the archway, then
their future life together will be very happy and long.
If you come to the Golden Gate in a cold winter evening (as we did),
when the sun has already set, you see that it becomes more and
more festive. It seems to stand at the head of all the town streets.
It looks motionless and a bit solemn. Still atmosphere surrounds
you, cars and trolleybuses slowly pass by, you feel rushing of light
cool wind on your face. Frosty air nips your nose. Fresh air mixes
with an unpleasant smell of car exhaust. If you hands get frozen
and you want to go home, something makes you stand there for
one more moment. You don't want to come back to the grey reality
of today's life, you wish you stayed in the past, breathed the air of
old times. Perhaps the ancient warrior's soul conceived in the
Golden Gate is sleeping now, but we are sure it will wake up
and stand up to defend us and fight for our bright future.
Welcome to Vladimir! We would be glad to see you in our town
some day. Don't miss the chance!
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